1 ene 2012

Delfina Delettrez

It all begins when Delfina Delettrez, daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi and Bernard Delettrez, French jeweler who works in Rome, decides to make in her father's workshops, a gold and silver necklace.
This collar was such a success that Bernard decided to teach himself her daughter the practices and tecniques of the profession. It was then when Delfina Delettrez decided to create her first collection of jewelery.



Skull and snakes ring

Skull and snakes ring, gold and ivory


Fur, silver, sapphires, crystal and glass bracelet





Silver, pearls, crystal and glass bracelet




Delfina's first collection, made in October 2007, was characterized by a Gothic-Romanesque style. It was full of fantastic animals and magic images, coming out of antique burial bestiaries, reflecting her greatest fears. For Delfina only two collections where necessary to be included, in 2009, into the permanent collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris, with two pieces of her jewelery: a gold bracelet with black spines, peridots and gray Tahiti pearls, and an enamel ring frog-shaped, crowned with a ruby pavé.




Gold, peridots and pearls bracelet



Silver, enamel and ruby ring




Delfina Delettrez is influenced by many sources: from Leonardo da Vinci, Tim Burton, Andreas van Hessel, Dali, Bunuel and De Chirico, to even the human body. 
In her fourth and fifth collection called "Anatomik" we can find hands, frogs, old beliefs, superstitions, ex votos, etc
The ring "Secret hand" is clearly influenced by the "sentimental jewels": rings that since the Middle Ages have been hidding words or phrases with love messages. We can also find double or triple alliance rings, a special model with an origin in the Italian "Mani in fede" or hands in faith (a symbol of love).






German ring,  gold enameled and set with a diamond
1600-1650
V&A Museum

German ring,  gold enameled and set with a diamond
1600-1650
V&A Museum




In 2010 she worked in two very different grounds. One of them is the belief of the end of the Mayan world by December 21, 2012 wich inspired the series "My World", where jewels become talismans and were we find numerous memento mori.
The other spot is the collection "We-Men", wich is inspired by independent women: writters like Virginia Woolf, George Sand and Colette, or artists like Domenico Gnoli. Here we can find shirt collars, shirt cuffs and cufflinks, men's clothes that women appropriates.


Shirt cuff bracelet, silver and gold
Collection We-Men


Domenico Gnoli
Giro di collo 15 1/2


Silver shirt collar necklace
Collection We-Men



Silver shirt collar necklace
Collection We-Men



Shirt collar necklace, silver and pearls
Collection We-Men



Shirt collar necklace, gold shappires and diamonds
Collection We-Men



Shirt cuff bracelet, silver and amethyst
Collection We-Men





Bronze and gold ring
Collection My World



Silver ring
Collection My World






In 2011, she exhibited the collection "Rolling Stones" in which she retook the insects world, but this time in a smaller size and with different connotations, working bees and killer mosquitoes taken from "The Wasp Factory"  by Lain Banks, appropriated her collection.
"Rolling Stones" is also a direct reference to jewelry in gneeral, all jewelry moves. The stones and pearls revolve into metal, rings and bracelets made of concentric circles are constantly moving.


Tourbillon earrings, enamel and silver



Baroque pearls, enamel drops and silver bracelet





Her ninth collection "Love Is in the Hair" was inspired by love and hair, and was influenced by the Victorian tradition.
Hair jewelry was not only associated to death but also to love and friendship.
In Delettrez's jewelry hair is present not only in the hearts of resin necklaces hanging from the samples but also in-wigs.
These hearts replace Victorian brooches and medallions and can be removed and exchanged. In one of them she included a lock of her daughter.
The hair, is one of her obsessions, and symbolizes strength.


Leather choker with metal studs and resin pendant
Collection Love is in the Hair



Leather choker with metal studs and resin pendant
Collection Love is in the Hair



Leather choker and metal pendant
Collection Love is in the Hair



Leather choker with metal studs
Collection Love is in the Hair
            
Leather choker with pendant
Collection Love is in the Hair




Hair Brooch with rubies, diamonds, silver and gold 
1754
V&A Museum




Hair locket, gold, pearls and green glass pastes
1775-1800
V&A Museum





Tradition is in all her jewels. Delfina takes the punch of the five stars and the crescent moon that Karl Lagerfeld designed for her father in the 80's.









Humor, the mixture of materials, the variation of universes, cultures, travels and experiences, characterize the jewels of this young designer that deals with universal themes and renews the classics. She seems to have an endless inspiration.
And it is only the beginning ....