1 mar 2012

The Duke of Verdura

Fulco Santostefano della Cerda, Duke of Verdura, was born in the core of an aristocratic Italian family.



Fulco di Verdura



He spend his childhood between the "Villa Niscemi" and "Bagheria" (a country state), surrounded by old books, animals, gardens, etc., which inspired, later on, his jewels.


A gold and diamond brooch
by Verdura


A yellow and white diamond, ruby and black enamel dragon brooch
by Verdura


In 1919, after the death of his father, he left palermo, with his heritage, and spent several years with the high society in Cannes, Venice and Paris, attending partys frequently.
It is in one of these partys where he meets Linda and Cole Porter, who recommend him a career according to his talent. He begins a great friendship with them.



Drawing of a clamshell compact
by Verdura



Sapphire and diamond clamshell
by Verdura



Verdura starts his career in Paris, in Chanel's textiles department, and only a few months later, Chanel had already discovered his qualities as a jeweller.
He spent six years as Chanel's head of jewellery department, and during that period he redesigned Chanel's private jewellery collection, mostly composed of gifts made by the Duke of Westminster and the Great Russian Duke Dimitri with the gems of this last, he creates the bracelets of the "maltese cross" which, along with the "pearl earrings surrounded by golden braids", became two of the most recurring motifs of Verdura and Chanel.




Chanel with Verdura's bracelets



Multi colored stones "Maltese cross" bracelets
by Verdura




Mabé pearls and diamonds earclips
Designed for Wallis Simpson
by Verdura



It is in another party where he meets the Baron Nicolas of Gunzburg and, in 1934, Verdura decides to go to north america with him. The Baron becomes editor for magazines such as Harper's Bazaar, Vogue and Town & Country, where Verdura's jewels appear on cover, while Verdura designs for Paul Flato. 



A diamond pine cone brooch
by Verdura
c.1950

Turquoise, pearls, gold and diamond indian brooch
by Verdura


He works for Flato, as chief designer, during almost five years, creating the line "Verdura to Flato" that is such a success that in 1939 Verdura opens his own store, specializing himself in custom made jewelry. 




Ruby and diamonds heart brooch
by Verdura
1949


Diamond and gold feather brooch
Verdura for Flato


It is said that only his friends could access to the second floor of his store. When someone asked for him, employees said that he was not at the shop, although he asked them to say that he was dead. 



Baroque pearls, diamonds and enamel necklace
by Verdura


Clients such as Gary Cooper, James Stuart, Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburn (for whom he designed all the jewels in the film Philadelphia Story) to whom he meets in L.A, and his connections in High Society and the fashion world, were the reasons to make his store a success, despite having opened it the eve of the start of the Second World War.



Gold, tourmaline and diamond brooch
by Verdura


He receives orders for special occasions, such as the cigarette case that Linda Porter will charge for her husband, for one of his premiere. It becomes a tradition and he performs up to twenty for the composer.



An olivines, tourmalines, citrines and beryl cigarette case
by Verdura






A gold and leather cigarette case and a engraved gold case
(designed for Mr. and Mrs. Paley)
by Verdura
c.1940


John Hay Whitney orders a tiara for his wife, on the occasion of his appointment as ambassador to the court of Saint james. Verdura is inspired by the indio-american's headdresses and performs a tiara with feathers made of gold and diamonds.


Gold and diamond tiara,
by Verdura
c.1956


His jewels are inspired by the memories of his childhood, but also by the Renaissance jewelry, animals, plants, Egypt, Rome, Leonardo da Vinci, and Giulio Romano.


A diamond, gold and pearl brooch
by Verdura



Gold and scallop shell brooch with citrines and diamonds



Baroque pearls and diamonds elephant brooch
Designed for Lady Metcalf
by Verdura



Verdura filled many notebooks with designs which, even today, are to be done and, that the house Verdura, sold in1972 to his partner Joseph Alfano, carries out very small editions, for very special clients.   



Platinum, yellow gold, sapphires and diamond brooch
by Verdura
c.1941



A diamond and gold brooch
by Verdura



His jewels are characterized by an incredible technical skill and the mixture of materials. The use of gold (which reminded him the sun of Sicily) and the colored stones, when platinum and diamond were the fashionable materials.


Gold and diamonds brooch
by Verdura
c.1940


A gold, diamond and blue gem brooch design
by Verdura


After signing the war peace and despite opening, in 1947, a store in Paris, New York remained his home, until he retired to London in 1972.


Dyed ivory, diamonds and pearls brooch
by Verdura
c.1940


Zircons oak leaf brooch
by Verdura
c.1940



He becomes a major influence for jewelers as Jean Schlumberger (to whom he hosts when he comes to New York), David Webb, Kenneth Jay Lane, Angela Cummings, Paloma Picasso, and it happens that, even today, we find in the jewels of Verdura the perfect mix between culture, imagination and innovation.


Nephrite and ruby earclips
 by Verdura



Sandalwood and gold earclips
by Verdura